Monday, January 18, 2010

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Autarchia

Titikaka The legendary lake is located 3800 meters above sea level and make the bathroom was a heroic act of pride that we are going to the bitter end. Legend has it that the will of the god Inti Viracocha, its waters were born the ancestors of the royal line of the Incas, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo.


In the midst of its placid majesty lies the volcanic island of Taquile, anthropological gem. We live about 2500 people speaking Quechua in a system of full self-sufficiency. Nothing, or almost, has changed from the period precolombino. Still remained intact and cultivated terraces along the four slopes of the island, as well as stone paths built over a thousand years ago are the only communication network. There are no cars, of course, but even dogs, horses and tractors.

The community is divided into six regions, each of which meet different families. The inhabitants of each territory and annually elect a chairman for a show of hands, while the ' alcalde mayor is elected every five years. Only the authorities are wearing a hair of alpaca, the rest there are social differences, and all wear the same clothes.
There is no police.
The yield of each family (potatoes, quinoa , beans, corn) is accumulated and distributed equally among all the people, as well as fish products. The killing of a sheep, the only animal on the island, is a collective decision.
addition to subsistence food, live off the sale of their textiles, absolutely unique, exhibiting in a collective center and whose proceeds are divided among the families.

why we are open to tourism and landed on the island every day hundreds of holidaymakers in search of authentic souvenir and photography. two hours and half to visit the island. The same time it takes to visit the zoo in Buenos Aires.
But it seems however that tourism has not yet affected the authenticity of the island. seems.

decide to stop three days and two nights, with the ever-living illusion (and hope) to be fewer tourists and more travelers.


sleep at home while eating with the family of Luis Maria, wife of Cesar. We are welcomed into their lives, their flavors we taste, we share their daily life consisting of work and smiles. We savor the silence, breathe the Andes surrounding the Titikaka, history, legend, an island out of time, once again.

him to the punch in the stomach thrusts Cesar. It tells us that the textile products selling to the cooperative have fixed prices because they are processed by the whole community. He, however, it offers its products with a small discount.
Conquest. The betrayal by a handful of dollars. We did have already spoken?

Friday, January 8, 2010

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The smell of Bolivia

La Paz is a city of cholitas with their puffy skirts and colored their bowler hats.
La Paz is a city of street children playing a charango completely forgotten.
La Paz is a city of borrachos wandering the streets aimlessly in their fragile balance.
La Paz is a city of cemeteries of the elephants,
where alcoholics decide to commit suicide by drinking every last drop of chicha.
is the city of La Paz Oscar Martinez, a sincere friend and deep thinker.
La Paz is a city minibus in which women sell to passers-by shouted destinations.
La Paz is a city of smells wide and enveloping
sweet fruit, vegetables march, fried pork rind.
La Paz is a city of sad faces and sad.
La Paz is the city where the street is the market and the market is on.
La Paz is the city from which it escapes with the exhaling.
La Paz is the highest capital city in the world.
La Paz is a city of slums that dominate the noble quarters.

La Paz is the city where the impossible becomes possible.



We want to reiterate how to travel to distant countries allows us to understand the true and deep meaning of words. We refer in this case the word "precarious", not in its noun form, widely used in Italy, but in the sense of adjective.
And 2003 in Bolivia. The President Gonzalo Sanchez de Lozada, who speaks English with a strong American accent, approve a new tax on state salaries above a certain limit. The police are involved. The institution of "police" on strike indefinitely.
Helter Skelter .
voice spreads like a seismic wave and the poorest people, perpetual enslavement of, gathers in front of the seats of power and starts an attack with stones and slogans. The army took to the streets, the last bastion of criminals in the service of the fittest.
is at this point that the unexpected jump directly to materialize the imagination in reality.
several policemen to the streets next to the people. In Plaza Murillo is war. Barricades and guns. In the rest of the city's guerrillas. For three days in La Paz is the state of siege.
is the president, "gringo" which puts an end to the killings and the law.
Police cries victory and change ally.
The people back to his bondage waiting for another occasion.

wall riddled with bullets in Plaza Murillo


The excursion costs $ 180. Four days through the south-east of Bolivia and the spectacular Salar de Uyuni for a total of 1200 km. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and overnight in three different shelters.
Francisco welcomes us at the border of Bolivia, a boy of 21 years from the decidedly more adult. Will lead the 4x4 for the duration of the excursion. Driver, guide and even cook.
Francisco Bolivians earn 1200 per month, ie $ 160. He has one day off a week, but not being under contract, the rest becomes uncertain.
ask him details.
tells us that 50% net the price we must pay the agency, which owns the machine. The other 50% (90 dollars) for meals (and many other substances), the three nights, gasoline and the entrance to the three parks, in addition to the fee for the stamp of the border. What remains to chofer Francisco, Bolivian work force, some of the cheapest on the market.
The real punch in the stomach comes when he adds that the owner is a Bolivian.


The incredible endless flatness of the Salar de Uyuni , the largest natural wonder that so far we have seen, we can just as cold and inescapable considerations on this continent so damn human.
The conquest was not only the material and carnal perpetrated by the Spaniards for more than two centuries, the conquest was also and above all economic. The western model has conquered Latin America, that model inextricably tied to capital and treason.
Betrayal Francisco that suffers daily.
Betrayal for a fistful of dollars, the largest slave of America today.